I had finally made it to Africa’s heart. Rwanda: a stunning country built on “a thousand hills” where tiny mud villages hug the steep fertile slopes. We headed for the breathtaking Virunga Mountains in the north of the country where the Parc National des Volcans borders the DRC and Uganda. A group of six volcanoes draped in 125 km2 of lush mountain forest, and of course home to some of the last remaining Mountain Gorillas.